Perfume of Peace Helps Farmers Switch From Drug Trade

A tragedy in a time of war has led to a social enterprise that is creating jobs – and making the world smell a little better, too.

The 7 Virtues perfume range was started by Canadian Barb Stegemann (http://www.barbstegemann.com/barb-stegemann-in-the-news.html) to harness the energy of social enterprise and women’s buying power to change the dynamic of war and misery created by conflict around the world.

Stegemann ran a successful public relations company when she was inspired to do something after tragedy struck a good friend who was serving in Afghanistan with the Canadian Armed Forces as part of the NATO mission (http://www.isaf.nato.int/). Hit on the head with an axe while involved in a village meeting, Captain Trevor Greene was thought to be fatally injured but survived, though he is still unable to walk.

The violent attack shocked Stegemann into action. The enterprise was founded not out of hatred and revenge, but as a way of addressing the serious economic problems and poverty of Afghanistan.

Wanting to do something, Stegemann was referred to the Turquoise Mountain Foundation (turquoisemountain.org), which is based in Afghanistan’s capital, Kabul. The Turquoise Mountain Foundation is a social enterprise working in Afghanistan to regenerate the country’s traditional arts and historic areas in order to create jobs and boost skills.

Stegemann was inspired by a farmer called Abdullah Arsala from Jalalabad in the eastern part of the country. He was growing the ingredients for making essential oils, rather than the much more lucrative opium poppies which are used to make the drug heroin and help fuel a vast global illegal drug trade. Heroin addiction ruins many lives around the world and often leads to crime and violence.

The Turquoise Mountain Foundation did a study and found that if farmers could be paid US $9,912 for a litre of rose oil or US $7,994 for orange blossom oil it would be enough of a market incentive to lure them away from growing opium poppies.

Stegemann decided to provide that incentive.

Using her life savings, she established a perfume company. To start, Stegemann bought Arsala’s entire stock of orange blossom oil. After getting further investment through the Canadian television program Dragons’ Den – on which entrepreneurs compete for funding – she launched the company with two perfumes: Orange Blossom of Afghanistan and Noble Rose of Afghanistan.

With the whole collection rebranded as The 7 Virtues (http://www.the7virtues.com/), the Afghanistan Orange Blossom went on sale at the prestigious Selfridges department store in London, U.K.

Using Arsala as a go-between, 2,500 farmers in Afghanistan are now supplying essential oils for the perfumes.

To further expand the concept, Stegemann has launched Middle East Peace (http://www.the7virtues.com/middle_east_peace.php), a perfume made from sweetie grapefruit oil from Israel with lime and basil oils from Iran.

In Haiti, a country still recovering from the 2010 earthquake disaster and decades of grinding poverty and political and economic chaos, she has created a scent for men using fragrant grass.

She hopes to also do the same for Rwanda and Syria.

The perfumes are all-natural and are put together in Toronto, Canada. They are sold in stores in Canada and the United States, as well as Selfridges in London.

The success has snowballed and a special gift pack has been put together for American Airlines.

“I never imagined I’d end up on a beauty counter, but this is where the women are and we must connect with them if we are going to reverse this cycle of war and poverty,” Stegemann told The Sunday Times. “Imagine if there were 300 women like me doing things like this. We could make a real difference.”

By David South, Development Challenges, South-South Solutions

Published: November 2013

Development Challenges, South-South Solutions was launched as an e-newsletter in 2006 by UNDP's South-South Cooperation Unit (now the United Nations Office for South-South Cooperation) based in New York, USA. It led on profiling the rise of the global South as an economic powerhouse and was one of the first regular publications to champion the global South's innovators, entrepreneurs, and pioneers. It tracked the key trends that are now so profoundly reshaping how development is seen and done. This includes the rapid take-up of mobile phones and information technology in the global South (as profiled in the first issue of magazine Southern Innovator), the move to becoming a majority urban world, a growing global innovator culture, and the plethora of solutions being developed in the global South to tackle its problems and improve living conditions and boost human development. The success of the e-newsletter led to the launch of the magazine Southern Innovator.  

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Afghanistan’s Juicy Solution to Drug Trade

Afghanistan is the world’s largest source of the illegal drugs opium and heroin (International Narcotics Control Board), both of which are derived from the bright-red flower, the poppy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poppy).

The country produced 8,200 tons of heroin in 2007, up 34 percent from the previous year.

The negative consequences of the flourishing drug trade are numerous: it is destabilizing Afghanistan’s neighbours and undermining political and legal institutions, addiction rates are soaring, and addicts are spreading HIV/AIDS.

All of this gives Afghanistan’s farmers a bad image. But that could change with the launch of a new brand for Afghanistan: “Anar, Afghan Pomegranate.” It is hoped this sweet fruit will lure farmers away from the illegal trade and boost the country’s image at the same time. The red fruit that contains hundreds of seeds (http://tinyurl.com/dhrzfq), is a local delicacy and has a regional reputation for excellence. It is hoped the pomegranate fruit trees will draw farmers away from the market for the red poppy flower.

By launching the product with its own logo and brand, producers hope the Afghani pomegranate will be able to benefit from a wave of interest in Western markets in the antioxidant qualities of the fruit (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antioxidant). Boxes of the fruit come clearly stamped with the logo, a sliced fruit with seeds spilling out, and the brand name.

A sophisticated branding and marketing campaign can make all the difference when a Southern country is exporting its products to wealthier nations.

Rather than having the product disappear amongst the plethora of products on a market stall or in the supermarket, clear and sophisticated branding quickly fixes a reputation with customers and significantly increases return purchases.

As consultants KPMG make clear, “For many businesses, the strength of their brands is a key driver of profitability and cash flow.”

Yet many small businesses fail to think about their brand values or how design will improve their product or service.

The Afghani pomegranate had been enjoying export success since 2007, when it became a big a hit with supermarket shoppers in Dubai. The French supermarket chain Carrefour expanded its order to all its Middle Eastern stores. It is hoped the branding will grow and secure these export markets.

There are more than 48 kinds of Afghani pomegranates. The highly prized Kandari pomegranate – named after its home province in the south of the country – is so popular in India, it will be branded “Kandari Pomegranate.”

Afghan Agriculture Minister Mohammad Asif Rahimi told a Kabul launch ceremony last November that Afghan pomegranates are the best in the world. “It’s sweet; it’s juicy,” he said.

The launch was an apt reflection of the risks of doing business in Afghanistan: it had extensive security and bomb-sniffing dogs.

For Afghani farmers, the pomegranate offers the attraction of more profit than growing poppies: farmers can make US$2,000 per acre, compared to US$1,320 for poppies.

While the financial incentive is there, there are many obstacles to making this alternative market a success. The country is a war zone in many places, and exporting through the road network can be perilous, with frequent attacks. Things became so bad last year, a shipment of the pomegranates had to be sent by US military aircraft.

Taking on the lucrative drug trade and its highly sophisticated global networks is not easy. Drug traffickers provide farmers with credit, advance payments, long-term contracts, technical advice and many other benefits farmers do not receive for growing legal crops.

It is hoped the fruit will be more than just a success on its own, and that it will boost the brand of Afghanistan as a nation as well.

“Afghanistan has a mixed-brand heritage,” said Loren Stoddard, USAID’s head of alternative development and agriculture.

Stoddard said the country is hoping to break with its image of war and extremism, and play to its exotic image in the Western mind. The Afghani pomegranate industry is receiving US$12 million from donors to modernize and expand.

Using design to profit from overseas markets has many advantages. But according to Monique Thoonen, managing director of Dutch Design in Development – an NGO experienced in helping Southern entrepreneurs break overseas markets – getting the steps right is critical.

“If you want to focus on a wider market you have to convince buyers that you understand what is wanted in all fields: design, product development, good presentation at a (trade) fair,” she said. “And if you have convinced the buyer, then you must make sure that your organization is organized in such way that you can make promises come true.

“Designing good products is one thing, but during product development also a good and effective production process has to be taken in account. Making the process too complex will result in high price setting, long lead times and maybe even poor quality. Besides, also the transportation of goods must be taken in consideration, bulky goods are very expensive, goods should be easy to pack and not easily break during transport. Goods must be able to resist high humidity and temperatures during transport.”

The Netherlands is well known as a global centre for high-quality product design. Dutch Design in Development works with importers, retailers, NGOs and foundations, matching them with a Dutch designer to develop their product and then provide them with advice on the Dutch and European markets.

By David South, Development Challenges, South-South Solutions

Published: February 2009

Development Challenges, South-South Solutions was launched as an e-newsletter in 2006 by UNDP's South-South Cooperation Unit (now the United Nations Office for South-South Cooperation) based in New York, USA. It led on profiling the rise of the global South as an economic powerhouse and was one of the first regular publications to champion the global South's innovators, entrepreneurs, and pioneers. It tracked the key trends that are now so profoundly reshaping how development is seen and done. This includes the rapid take-up of mobile phones and information technology in the global South (as profiled in the first issue of magazine Southern Innovator), the move to becoming a majority urban world, a growing global innovator culture, and the plethora of solutions being developed in the global South to tackle its problems and improve living conditions and boost human development. The success of the e-newsletter led to the launch of the magazine Southern Innovator.  

Follow @SouthSouth1

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This work is licensed under a
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